THE SMOKE THAT THUNDERS!
I moved on from Bulawayo by coach to Victoria Falls, the tourist town on the south of the famous falls. This was a very African experience – but I enjoyed it! The bus was full but no standing – well only 15 - plus about 2000 day old chicks in boxes all round the luggage racks, cheep cheep CHEEP! There was loud African music on dvd which was really good. There was no comfort stop for 6 hours which was not! I treated myself to a night in a good hotel on arrival. They were so anxious for business that they rapidly discounted the price from $250 to $75 when I prevaricated!
African Dawn Chorus: I woke early to hear layers of sound building up. First a low roar from the Falls a Kilometre away, above that a chorus of bullfrogs, then the buzz and chirrup of a host of insects and finally the cries and whistles of birds starting their morning song. Carefully closing the patio doors to keep the baboons out I went for breakfast watching the spray rising and swirling over the gorge, then cape in hand down to the falls walk. Being the wet season there was a colossal amount of water coming over. Adjectives fail me to describe the spectacle walking the half kilometer path opposite the main falls. Rainbows came and went on the path before me as one stupendous view succeeded another. With drifting spray and heavy rain from the rain-forest trees I got absolutely SOAKED in spite of cape and hat.
Quick Exit to Lusaka: Just time then, back at the hotel to dry off and pack. A good Samaritan I had met the previous night arrived to take me over the border into Zambia. So at last I crossed the bridge forbidden to us in 1970, when it led to the rebel colony of Rhodesia. Instead of another 8 hour coach journey he ‘fixed’ for me to get a half price standby flight up to Lusaka. An hour and a quarter in a small plane took me there to be met by Christine, the sister in law of one of Sarah’s friends. She took me shopping and sightseeing, past the 60s concrete built university where I met Valerie (now commonly known as “the ruin” though still in use). I found it hard to recognize much. Everywhere, trees newly planted in 1969 were full grown, obstructing the views I remembered. We at length located a Baptist Hostel, a real little haven of peace, where I thankfully laid my head.
A Quick Visit: The next morning was spent, blessed with email and phone connections, touching base with contacts, booking flights and lifts – and doing my washing. I had brought out a guitar intending to drop it off at Kafue en route from Livingstone at a project supported by one of our local churches. Of course I had flown over it! I rang the contact I had, hoping someone could collect it from me in Lusaka. The contact turned out to be a Rev Sitale who was just setting out to visit the project from just round the corner! So ten minutes later he collected me and we drove the 20 odd miles to Kafue. I visited the Health Centre and School, presented the guitar, two recorders and a football and returned for lunch. Just one of the ‘serendipities' which occurred on my journey to smooth the way.
Later I met Petronella Halwiindi, Director of Send a Cow programmmes in Lusaka who took me to the Send a Cow/Heifer International Offices and discussed details of my visits to projects in Eastern Province. She was a dynamic lady and very knowledgeable about the charity’s work in Zambia – much more extensive than I had realised. She and her husband kindly took me for a delicious Indian meal. We arranged to meet again before going to Eastern Province and debrief on my time in NW Province.
Fleshpots of Lusaka: The next day I set off for the city centre to collect air tickets and do some shopping. Cairo Road used to be the premier shopping street of Lusaka with craft sellers under the trees down the middle. Sadly I found it rather downgraded and seedy, the craft sellers all gone. It seems to have been eclipsed by smart new shopping malls elsewhere in the city. Even the British Council, which used to be a meeting point for us volunteers was sadly diminished, the well used library closed in one of government’s small- minded economy cuts. Still I found a café and had a milk shake and toasty sandwich as in my former visits to ‘town’. I had previously made contact with the organization who had missionaries stationed near us in Chizera where I worked from 1969-72. They were having a conference in Lusaka and had invited me to join them for a session. Although the people I knew were long retired it was good to spend time with those serving now and hear of later developments. They showed little interest in secular development work in my time but later appointed an agriculturalist to develop their land. They now encourage Bible students to have a more holistic ministry and be self supporting. As the conference was to finish next day, I took up an offer of a lift to the Copper Belt, 250 miles north.
The Road North: The next day saw us on the road north, a busy 2 lane highway. It seemed to me there were far more people about than previously. Many were selling goods at the roadside. In some areas hundreds of bags of charcoal, other areas several varieties of varicoloured fungi, in others jars of honey on racks, as well as all sorts of vegetables and fruits. All along there was green grass and trees and well fed animals, this being the rainy season. A striking new feature were frequent mobile phone masts, “cells” being in universal use now. What a difference from the days of my long-range romance with Valerie when a exchange of letters took a fortnight, or longer if the bus broke down!
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